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Victorian jewelry was made during the reign of Queen Victoria in England. It was a time when people were wearing more jewelry than ever before. Throughout the whole period, fashions were colorful, eclectic, sentimental and sometimes even morbid. Jewelry from the period can be categorized in to the following eras:

   * From 1840 to 1860 many examples exhibit a romantic and flamboyant design in their attitudes.
   * From 1860 to 1880 the designs shifted to innovative and experimental designs.
   * From 1880 to 1900 examples became more subtle and elegant.

Design motifs like scrolls, ribbons, stars, Maltese crosses, crescents, insects and serpents were prevalent. Cameos made from Sardonyx or shells were also popular. Jewelers worked in gold as well as rose-color and silver-topped gold with diamonds for the “white” look. Popular stones of the period were turquoise, lemon yellow chrysolites, pink topaz, onyx, coral, seed pearls and aquamarine.

In the 1860's the chignon hairstyle was in vogue. Hair was pulled back and fastened with a jeweled comb, exposing the ears, which inspired jewelers to create pendant earrings in a profusion of styles and designs. During this time the demantoid garnet was discovered in Siberia and was used extensively.

The arrival of diamonds from South Africa in 1870 changed the nature of jewelry. The new abundance of diamonds allowed the cutters to cut them differently. Until then brilliants had been left square and deep, conforming to the shape of the natural crystal, but now that there was a plentiful supply of diamonds they could be cut round and shallow, which created an extravagant brighter stone.

The Edwardian style of jewelry began in England prior to the coronation of King Edward VII. The extravagance and sophistication of the court of King Edward VII and his elegant Queen, Alexandra, followed the conservative and somber reign of Queen Victoria. High society had a pleasure-loving figure to follow and pursue luxury, enjoyment and the life of Belle Epoque. Total femininity was the look of the Edwardian lady and the jewelry of the times reflected this fashion.

Ladies fashions of the times motivated jewelers to concentrate their efforts on necklace designs. During this period jewelers had discovered new techniques to work in platinum. Delicate wirework often incorporating knife-edges was indicative to the times. Intricately pierced, diamond set neck ornaments were often worn on a black silk or velvet ribbon in a popular style called Collier de Chein. Pearl chokers, sometimes strung with as many as 20 rows of small pearls and held together by diamond plaques, were very fashionable. Sautoirs often ended in fringed tassels or a pierced octagonal pendant delicately set in diamonds. Around 1900 a special form of necklace, the negligee, appeared, which consisted of a simple chain necklet supporting a central pendant consisting of a gem-set surmount supporting two drops hanging side by side on links often of unequal length.In the 1860’s the chignon hairstyle was in vogue. Hair was pulled back and fastened with a jeweled comb, exposing the ears, which inspired jewelers to create pendant earrings in a profusion of styles and designs. During this time the demantoid garnet was discovered in Siberia and was used extensively.

The outbreak of World War I in 1914 put a sudden and dramatic end to the light-hearted spirit of the beginning of the century.The arrival of diamonds from South Africa in 1870 changed the nature of jewelry. The new abundance of diamonds allowed the cutters to cut them differently. Until then brilliants had been left square and deep, conforming to the shape of the natural crystal, but now that there was a plentiful supply of diamonds they could be cut round and shallow, which created an extravagant brighter stone.

Art Nouveau was a design movement rising out of France and England and was characterized by graceful curves, references to nature and virtuoso techniques in goldsmithing and jewelry making. The movement expressed a revolt against restrictions and conventions that suffocated individuality and imagination. Most Art Nouveau designs were one of a kind and were appreciated not only for their value or weight in materials, but for their design, color and craftsmanship.

Artists used materials rarely seen before in jewelry including horn, tortoise shell and, most notably, a technique known as plique a jour. In this style of enameling, transparent enamels are fused into the openings of metal filigree in the manner that produces an effect suggestive of stained glass.

Art Nouveau designs portrayed a sense of organic motion drawing its inspiration from nature. Insects, like dragonflies, butterflies, grasshoppers and spiders were frequent in design motifs. Birds, especially peacocks with their magnificent plumage were one of the most popular images stylized into Art Nouveau designs,. Designers took a close look at nature's floral wonders and transferred the more exotic aspects of it to their creations.The outbreak of World War I in 1914 put a sudden and dramatic end to the light-hearted spirit of the beginning of the century.The arrival of diamonds from South Africa in 1870 changed the nature of jewelry. The new abundance of diamonds allowed the cutters to cut them differently. Until then brilliants had been left square and deep, conforming to the shape of the natural crystal, but now that there was a plentiful supply of diamonds they could be cut round and shallow, which created an extravagant brighter stone.

Art Nouveau is noted for its depictions of women, usually languorous long-dressed or nude beauties, most often in sublime and ethereal postures. The attributes of Art Nouveau jewelry which make it emotionally striking are the subtle color, suggestion of form with delicate turns creating a mystical imagery. The most notable French designers of the period were Lalique, Vever and Foquet. In America, Tiffany and Company produced some of the most important examples, while the rare enameled pieces by Caldwell and Co. of Philadelphia are highly prized.

The jewelers of the Art Deco period produced some of the most dazzling pieces ever seen - daring, flamboyant, pristine and even playful. This was the era of the flapper and jazz music. The myriad influences contributing to Art Deco jewelry design came from Pharaonic Egypt, the Orient, tribal Africa, Cubism and graphic design. Most of all, jewelry from this period used bold geometric designs.

In the 1920's and 30's a wide range of jewelry was worn; from dangling earrings which showed off the short bobbed haircuts of the roaring 20's, bracelets and bangles to ultra-long beaded sautoirs which complemented the dropped waistline. Probably the most unique piece of jewelry that characterizes the 1920's was the bandeau, most of which have since been converted into bracelets.

During this period, jewelers worked in white and yellow gold, platinum, enamel and silver. Among the most famous fine jewelry houses producing Art Deco Jewelry were Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Lacloche and Chaumet and Mauboussin.

In the midst of the gloom of World War II, jewelry was bursting with red gold and rubies, ribbons of yellow gold and showers of sapphires, substantial chunks of citrines, aquamarines and amethysts. Jewelry lines were softened into voluptuous curves, inflated into massive, three-dimensional shapes and coaxed into figurative forms.

Due to Hollywood's influence, glamour and escapism was much in demand in the 1940's yet there was simply not the same amount of money to spend on the masses of diamonds and platinum. Instead, to achieve the effect of massive magnificence, limited quantities of gold were eked out and cleverly made to look like heavy chunks of precious metal. There was a move toward the use of wide expanses of sweeping metal, rose gold, and rich yellow gold, wrought into sweeping swirls, whorls and drapes.

In the 1950's, sophisticated all-white diamond jewelry came into vogue again. The emphasis in design was on movement. Diamonds of different cuts and shapes were used together, in platinum or white gold, to create swirls, twirls, fans, waterfalls and cascades. The baguette was enormously popular and was incorporated into far more voluptuous, curvaceous patterns.